Hagen skirt sew-along – Part 5

We’ve sewn the zipper and now we’ll attach the lining to the zipper tape. This is traditionally done by hand from the right side, but there’s no reason not to machine sew this bit as well. Line up the edges of zip allowance and sew lining and center back of facing to zipper tape. Sew as close to the zipper as you can with a regular zipper foot or similar narrow foot.

Clip the corner so that it turns neatly. You can also grade seam allowance along the entire waist if you’re working with a medium to heavy fabric.

Turn so that right side is out to check that everything lines up nicely and the zipper is indeed invisible when zipped up. The skirt is now in desperate need of some pressing but let’s sew the center back seams of both skirt and lining first.

Start 1-2 cm higher than where the zipper seam ends to make sure there will not be a gap. Sew this seam about 3-5 mm further in than zipper seam. This is to stop the zipper from puckering. Taper to normal seam allowance towards the hem.

Now all that’s left to do is the hem. First, sew together the ends of hem facing like you did with the facing. Press seams open.

Pin facing to hem, matching side seams and notches. Sew facing in place.

Press seam, pressing seam allowance and facing away from the hem. Understitch.

Press facing to the wrong side, rolling 1-2 mm of skirt with it so that seam and understitching are not visible from the right side. Pin in place.

The pattern instructions advise you to fold under 1 cm of top edge of facing. We’ve overlocked the upper edge instead because our fabric is relatively heavy. Either way, the final step is to sew the upper edge of the facing.