Hagen skirt sew-along – Part 4

Start by sewing the darts. Pop over to our tutorial on how to sew darts. Note that the dart legs are not straight but have a slight curve, so follow the traced line carefully.

Next, attach the pocket you’ve chosen to use. See a separate tutorial for each pocket below

• Patch pocket
• Rectangular pocket with flap
• Faux pocket flap – coming soon!

Sew the side seams of both lining and self fabric. We’ve finished all edges with an overlocker first, then sewn the side seams. For lining, we used french seams. Press side seams, either pressing them open or pressing towards the back piece.

Sew the facing: Matching side seams, right sides facing, sew back facings to front facing.

Press seams open and pin facing along lining. If you start at the seams it’s easy to make sure they match. Also match notches.

Sew facing to lining.

Press seam allowance towards the lining and understitch. Start and finish as close to the corner as you can. Grade seam allowance of lining to 3-4 mm ( 3/32” ) so that it turns neatly.

Attaching the invisible zipper: First, do a basting stitch along the center back where the zip will be inserted. Use longest possible stitch length and a contrasting thread colour.

Press seam open. Place zipper right side down (=the “invisible” side) Pin to seam allowance only, using plenty of pins. You can also baste the zipper tape to seam allowance instead of using pins.

Unpick the basting stitch.

The zipper is now secured exactly where it should be. With an invisible zipper foot sew the zipper in place, removing the pins as you go along.

Final part of the sew along coming soon!